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Annie's Organic Farmers: Jeff DeWald
Jeff is a smart, friendly, down to earth person. In the same sentence, he’ll recount a crop failure or marketing fiasco, and then laugh about the irony of the situation. He’s got a good belly laugh and has a local and global perspective on agriculture.
He has been a farmer all his life, a lifestyle his Dad handed him and one he chooses. Jeff farms about 4000 acres of rolling hills and plateaus, a combination of his Mother’s, Uncle’s Father’s Grandfather’s and Great Grandfather’s land. He’s also bought some land that he’s added to the farm, and there’s some land that he rents. Over the years he’s tried to grow just about everything: sunflowers, wheat, spelt, oats, rye, flax, durum, alfalfa, barley, buckwheat, safflower and sweetclover. He likes growing small grains the best and has a real respect and admiration for what a crop of alfalfa can do for the soil. Alfalfa is a legume (a plant in the pea family) and it can fix nitrogen back in the ground. Its deep taproots bring nutrients up from the soil and it out-competes most weeds. Any crop that follows alfalfa is a happy crop.
Jeff started out in the dairy business like his Dad, but changed course to grow grains, explore organic farming and have a saner schedule. In 1982 he sold his first organic crop. In 1997 he was one of the first farmers certified organic by OCIA, the Organic Crop Improvement Association. Today, OCIA is one of the larger national and international certifiers and Jeff is on their Board. In fact, he’s the Board President! When we talked, he had just returned from a trip to China to explore their organic farming systems and the economic impact it has on United States markets and farms.
Jeff’s experience in agriculture shines when we talk about local markets and global competition. He understands the complexity of what local farmers face, and says that China will continue to be a tough competitor since their climate is so diverse and their labor force so large and cheap. Local US farms face steep competition, “When you can import from China cheaper than we can grow it--—there’s a problem----something is deeply wrong,” Jeff says.
He challenges all of us to look beyond organic production to what makes something truly sustainable. Other countries can beat US production costs, but we have to ask ourselves, “What kind of social and economic system does that support?” “Will our farms be here in another generation if we continue to import?” Sustainability goes beyond organic production; it is a value that asks us to support the environment, and our social and economic systems in a healthy way. Right now our market system only values the dollar, and that, Jeff says, “is a big problem.”
This is where Jeff’s passion for organics really shines. He says, “Organic/ sustainable farming has to be from the heart and soul, not just the mind or pocketbook. The pocketbook has a tendency to mess up the mind. If you have a good and honest heart and soul, nothing can take that away, not even death itself.” The decision to go purely organic took hold when his first son was born. He said, “It hit me, holding this little baby, that it was my responsibility to raise my son and keep him out of harm’s way.” After that Jeff dove into organics and has been farming that way ever since.
His family is supportive of his organic operation. Some times there are hard decisions to be made because certain things aren’t good for the pocketbook but are best for the long term viability of the farm. His wife Janet of 20 plus years has the same great appreciation for the outdoors and the beauty of nature. With their 4 kids they have a very busy schedule.
Jeff and I had our visit for this story in between wrestling matches and dance performances (by their daughter.) His kids names are all great J names, Justin, Jordan, Jaden, and Jacey. Jeff’s oldest son, Justin likes to farm and is passionate about organics. Fortunately, Jeff has a son who just might stay on the farm, and he also has an interest in organic livestock, mechanics and electrical work.
Since farming has its low times, Jeff also does plumbing and heating work and is a Mr. Fix It. He says, “If it’s broke, then I can fix it.” Which is the best skill for a farmer to have. He also does all kinds of construction work and his house has a nice new walk in porch area as a result.
How does this all relate to Annie’s? The last conversation I had with Jeff answered that question pretty well.
Another big reason that Jeff likes organic farming is that the marketing is different from conventional commodities. With Ceres Organic Harvest, Jeff has a relationship and a company that will work with him in bad years and in good years. He says, “Anybody can sell a good crop, it doesn’t take a lot of talent to do that, but it is the years you don’t have a good crop that make the difference.” That is when a good company makes a difference. “The company that treats you as a person not just a number is what makes the whole organic thing SUSTAINABLE, it’s not if you top the market every time.” It’s the personal, caring relationships that make it all possible and make this business worthwhile and sustainable. Annies support helps make that possible. In the beginning, Annie’s had a couple farmer names on the back of the box!
This kind of loyalty between buyers and farmers makes for more than good business; it forms friendships. Consumers need relationships like this as part of their food chain if it will ever be sustainable. The durum Jeff grows is more than just organic grain, it’s a vote for the family farm, and business relationships that are healthy and respectful. Jeff makes me darn proud, saying, “Ceres Organic Harvest is one of the best in the industry. They are there for you through thick and thin, the good and the bad.” They have been there forever (well since organics started). “They are here for the right reasons not like the big companies that just woke up in the last few years just because they see a new market where there is a little money to be made. These big companies could care less about who you are or where their products come from.”
Then Jeff gets on top of his soapbox, one he’s earned the right to stand on. “Believe me, these big companies are not concerned about the sustainability of the organic industry. They are here today and when the going gets tough, they will put their tail between their legs and run like a coyote and stab us in the back.” Jeff’s comments sting, but he speaks from experience and we know that he’s right—sustainability isn’t easy. Sometimes it’s a hard choice, and not always a lucrative one. But, it’s a choice worth fighting for, farming for, and we hope it’s one of the reasons that you buy Annie’s.
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